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Step by step Winterization of a Marine Engine
To begin
fall lay up of a marine engine, begin by stabilizing the gasoline,
thereby halting its degradation into gum and varnish. Otherwise, by
springtime the carburetor may become so plugged up the engine won't start.
This procedure is even more important nowadays because gasoline shelf life
has become so short: After ninety days untreated fuel turns sour.
The
exact quantity of stabilizer required depends upon two variables: How many
gallons of gasoline need to be treated and for many months. The larger the
volume of fuel and the longer the spell of time, the more ounces of
stabilizer required. Follow the instructions printed on the can, and wear
rubber gloves.
Start the engine. Running the motor at fast idle circulates treated
fuel throughout the filters and the carburetor, or in the case of an
EFI motor, its injectors. Once the engine is warmed up, shut it
off.
If you're working on a stern drive, inboard, or four stroke
outboard motor, immediately drain the crankcase oil so its hot.
With all the acids and corrosive elements held in suspension, they spill
out along with the hot, dirty crankcase oil instead of etching vital ring and
bearing surfaces during the winter months. At the same time you drain the
oil, also replace the filter so contaminated oil doesn't foul the clean,
new
oil. But before installing the new filter, first fill it. That way rod and
crankshaft bearings don't wait for the oil pump to first fill a dry filter
before sending lubricant through the oil galleys.
Another tip: Dab a fingerful of oil around the filter gasket to help it seal against the
block. With the new filter in place and the oil-level topped off, restart
the engine, check the filter base for leaks.
Backwash the cooling system with a garden hose adapter, flushing out salt,
sediment, and rust flakes that would otherwise corrode the cooling system.
When appropriate, remove seawater impellers. If you're unsure
whether your model of inboard or stern drive would benefit from this step,
consult the shop service manual. Also check to see whether the engine
should be running or turned-off while backwashing.
Important to note, heat exchanger tubes should be removed and cleaned
every other year. Be forewarned this is a time consuming, but important
operation.
Rust-proof cylinder walls by fogging their surfaces with a super-sticky
oil. With the engine idling, shut off its fuel supply so its running on
just the treated fuel in the carburetor float bowl. Just as the engine
starts to die, rpm will climb. At this precise moment, begin furiously
squirting fogging oil down the carburetor throat. Flood the engine with a
mist of fogging oil until it stops running.
Next remove all of the spark plugs and dump about an ounce of fogging oil
into each cylinder. I use an old-fashioned oil can to pump in the
stuff. With the spark plugs back in place (finger tight) and the ignition
disabled, crank the engine for a few seconds to distribute
oil onto the piston rings and cylinder walls.
Loosen water pump, alternator and power steering drive belt, to lessen the
tension on those component's bearings. Inspect the drive belts for cracks
or frayed edges. Replace as necessary. On inboards and stern drive motors,
remove the carburetor flame arrestor and soak it in kerosene. Air dry then
re-install. An alternative that I prefer, spray it with crbureteor cleaner from the
inside out. Inother words, blow grit out, rather than deeper into the
metal elements.
Grease the steering linkage, shift cable, tilt mechanisms, and swivel
points. Greasing expels water preventing it freezing, expanding and
breaking parts. Zerk fittings that won't take lube should be unscrewed and
replaced
Drain the gearcase oil. Otherwise, trapped water could freeze, expand and
break the housing. First, loosen the bottom drain plug just enough so
whatever liquid is in the gearcase trickles out. A few drops of water
followed by lubricant is OK. But more than an ounce and the gearcase
should be pressured-checked to find which seal is leaking, so it can be
replaced. The one ounce of water is not an arbitrary number. Gear oil
blenders researched exactly how little water it takes to destroy
a gear set.
Like an obsessive compulsive personality, examine the dirty oil for water, bits of broken gear teeth and bronze
grit.
Obviously these metal particles mean further repairs are necessary.
Dip your finger in the oil and sniff it. If the odor is burned,
further investigation is warranted.
Assuming oil is well, refill the lower unit with the factory recommended
lubricant. Fill from the bottom so no air bubbles prevent completely
filling of the oil reservoir.. When lubricant spills out the top hole, the
housing is full. Insert the top drain plug first. Make certain each drain
plug has one and only one gasket, and that no gasket is lodged in the
casting's recess.
Filling is neater when using a little handpump. One model attaches to gear
oil tubes, another quart cans of gear oil. They make life simple.
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