CANNED CURES for Marine Engine Repairs
Simply put, Texaco's fuel additive is a miracle potion that cleans gasoline fuel systems from the inside out, dissolving varnish from carburetor jets and wax build-up from fuel injector nozzles. It also flashes carbon deposits off the combustion chamber and piston dome. A single dose once a year can do wonders for keeping an engine running smoothly. As an added benefit, a rough running engine that rattles on and on after the key is switched off can usually be cured after burning a paltry few gallons of treated fuel.
Most of us know fogging oil is an engine preservative routinely administered during fall lay-pup. But fogging oil really should be applied anytime an engine will lie dormant more than a couple of weeks. Otherwise humid air migrates into the cylinders via open intake and exhaust valves. Moisture accumulates on cylinder walls, rusting the bore and piston rings. A shot of fogging oil during the middle of the summer solves the problem lending engines longer life.
The shelf life of today's gasoline blends is embarassingly short. Varnish and gum build up, clogging filters and carburetors. So if one day you have ignition spark, but no go, remove the fuel line to the carburetor. Open the screw in the bottom of the bowl and drain residual gas out. Attach the little red straw to the aerosol can's nozzle then spray a burst into the carburetor. The cleaner will flow into the bowl and out the jets. Cross you fingers that it dissolves the gum. Reattach the fuel line and try to start the engine. If it still won't fire, then disassemble the carburetor and clean the parts with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner.
Internal engine cleaner
While Techron scours an engine clean over time, internal engine works in minutes. Warm the engine. Hold engine speed at about 1000 rpm, spraying a copious amount of the cleaner down the air intake. The engine exhaust will smoke like a chimney. Shoot in so much cleaner the engine stumbles and dies. Go have a cup of coffee. Restart the engine. It will smoke, stumble and burble then begin to run smoothly.
Water and gas don't mix. It's the same with diesel fuel. Your first clue they're a problem comes when engine runs roughly. Special blends formulated specifically for gas or diesel absorbs the moisture allowing it to flow into the combustion chamber and burn. Beware the cheap stuff, which is usually nothing more than cheap alcohol.
Anti-fouling outdrive paint
As simple as the sea is salt prevent corrosion by painting outboard and stern drive lower units with anti-fouling paint specifically formulated for aluminum. Read the label, follow the directions to the letter.
Moisture displacing lubricant
Moisture displacing lubricant drives moisture out of electrical connections and protects against corrosion. Spray liberally, sopping up overspray with a shop rag.
As mentioned early on in the section about carburetor cleaner, gasoline shelf life is all too short. To prevent gasoline from degrading into gum and varnish pour in a few ounces of fuel stabilizer before topping off the tank. That way the turbulence thoroughly mixes it up. The more gallons of gasoline to be treated and the longer the term of protection the more ounces of stabilizer required. Read the label and wear goggles and gloves.
Sometimes only low octane fuel is available dockside and you engine drinks the good stuff. Or, in foreign ports fuel quality is questionable. The solution is to treat the fuel with one of the many brands octane booster. Again read the label to find out exactly how many ounces per gallons are requires. This stuff is toxic, wear a serious pair of rubber gloves. Don't get it on your skin. Don't breathe the fumes.
Marine grade grease
Marine grade grease amply squirted into a Zerk fitting drives out trapped moisture, preventing corrosion and of course, lubricating vital surfaces. Liberally slopped onto the propeller shaft splines it eases removal in the months or years down the road. Pump in grease, watching the old stuff spurt out. When you see clean, new grease you're done.