1. Pull the crankcase dipstick. Wipe it
as clean as a whistle. Then jab it back into the
oil sump. This time when you draw it out of its scabbard you’ll see a true
reading of the oil level. If it’s low, add just enough to bring it back to
the mark. A couple of ounces low is no big deal. But if the marine engine burns a
quart of oil every outing it’s critical to keep an eye on the oil level so
the well doesn’t run dry and wipe out crankshaft bearing. Just as important
as checking oil level is changing the oil and filter. Lubricant wears out
because a hard working marine engine is like a mini refinery, cracking
crankcase oil. High hour engine oil gets sticky enough to gum up piston
rings. Effectively frozen in their piston ring lands they stop expanding and
contracting in the cylinder bore, and are no longer able to scrape excess
oil off the cylinder walls. So the oil migrates into the combustion chamber
where it’s incinerated. When it does, it leaves behind carbon, abrasive
carbon. That speeds engine wear.
2. Check the coolant on freshwater-cooled
marine engines. That’s because
overheating kills more marine engines than any other malady. Top off coolant
level as necessary. Should the engine continually require replenishment it’s
wise to have a professional determine exactly where the coolant is escaping.
It’s also important to change coolant every couple of years. That’s because
anti freeze includes an additive package that fights internal corrosion
inside the cylinder block and heads. Some brands have a short shelf life,
some of the newer blends boast longer. But once it’s gone stale corrosion
begins to destroy the grey iron castings from the inside out.
3. Check the
inboard or stern drive sea strainer for debris that could otherwise cause a clog.
All stern drive and inboard engines flow raw water through sea strainers and
hoses. A plugged up sea strainer is a bottle neck, or in the worst case
scenario, a cork in the bottle. The engine overheats, the cylinder heads
warp, the engine dies.
4. Check all of the cooling system hoses. Hoses, that flow seawater
directly to the engine and to the heat exchanger can collapse under suction,
obstructing water flow. A new, healthy hose feels firm and supple. An old,
bad hose either feels as lifeless as a wet noodle or as hard as a rock.
While you are at it, also squeeze the hoses on the engine proper. Replace as
necessary.
5. Check the alternator and water pump drive belts, a two part exercise.
Look at the belt to make sure it isn’t frayed, that it isn’t checkered or
cracked on any of its surfaces. These are signs of aging that mean the belt
could let go at any moment, leaving you with an overheating engine and a
draining battery. The belt should also be properly tensioned. A too tight
belt strains alternator and water pump bearings. Too lose and the belt slips
on the pulleys and can be damaged and eventually break. Also, a too loose
belt doesn’t let the alternator efficiently charge the battery or allow the
water pump to circulate fluid through the engine block and heads. Deflect
the belt with your thumb. There should be between about 1/8 to ¼ inch play.
The newer serpentine belts self adjust tension. ©
Copyright 2007 by Tim Banse
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